Picture of the day!

Misty and Misrak in Jijiga

Community = Unity (Poem)

Community

My skin, your skin

Who are we within?

Carefully, I see, the key is we

Humanity, semantically intertwined

Who finds the binds that keep us?

Who are the minds that weep?

Softly in the night I hear them

I’ll share myself with you

If you bare yourself too

Untie the rotting knot

And if we get caught

We’ll know we fought

For unity

On My Way To The Sun

I am going to the sun

But unlike Icarus

I will not fall

My wings will not melt

My head up

Eyes forward

Back straight and tall

Pictures and Poem

On the way from Harar to Jijiga, Ethiopia

Babel Stone

Wild Camels

Abba Worku

12-12-09

Empty ravines

Desert scenes

Camel caravans

Cameras banned

Ethiopian land

Teff man

Bridges over ancient rivers

Now dry under blue skies

Sun sweat

Buna bliss

Dire Dawa’s kiss

Covenant myth

Raw meat

Harar stout

Sweet drought

Cactus fish

In this desert sea

Make a wish for me

Jijiga-

Where nomads wonder free

Back in Dire Dawa

The Streets Of Harar, Ethiopia.

12/14/09

We left Dire Dawa at 5am on December 10th. There are many people up at this time. Some are sweeping the streets, and unlike Barcelona where you have a huge machine doing the work with flashing lights, beeping, and annoying noises to wake you up there are just people with witch-like brooms quietly sweeping away.

Worku and I picked up Misrak and began our drive to Jijiga. Most of the roads are dirt roads. They twist and turn the whole way there. The sights are beautiful. There are these huge boulders on the way to Jijiga. Thousands of thousands of years old piled on top of each other to create strange formations. You can hear the monkey’s hooting and howling if you listen.

There are many caravans of Camels carrying various things including water. Sometimes twenty in a row only tied from the tail of one to the neck of another. There are also many ancient ravines that once had an abundance of water in their time, only to be dry now.

We got to Jijiga in time for breakfast with Abba Johnny (an old Italian priest with a thunderous voice.) After breakfast we visited the compound and the school. The birds in Jijiga say, “Quq! Qua!” and, “Cooo, Cooo, Cooo” and some sound like a clock striking noon “KooKoo!”

We had a long meeting with the children in the Peace and Justice Club. There are over 200 kids in the club in Jijiga! Once the meeting was over with the members there was a teacher’s conference and we presented the audio CD to them.

We had lunch with the sisters and it was fabulous! An assortment of dishes, homemade orange and coffee ice cream in Whiskey for desert, and Papaya. We took off after lunch for Harar.

Teferi is a village on the way from Dire Dawa to Harar.

We got to Harar in time to feed the Hyenas! I think the picture can explain it better than I can. I took the pictures while I was feeding the Hyena some raw meat. I wasn’t scared, but Misrak is afraid of dogs and wild Hyenas are no exception!

 

On December 11th we dropped Misrak off at the bus station so she could travel back to Dire Dawa to do some work at the office. Two of the girls from the compound took me to the market to shop. I found some incense and some bone jewelry, but nothing much interests me.

One of the reasons is that all the things they have are imported from Asian countries. Nothing that really screams Ethiopia unless it’s the local fruit. I would like to buy a locally woven basket but they’re too big for me to bring back. Ethiopian women are famous for their intricate weaving skills.

Worku and I went to visit the Harar City Museum. Harar is over a thousand years old and is considered one of the four Mecca of the world.

The museum here reflects that. The museum itself is within one of the palaces of Hale Sellassie. There are a lot of cultural items as in traditional cloths, pots, warrior gear, and paintings of tribal hairstyles. There are coins dating back to 900A.D, ancient Korans, and medical books dating back before 900 A.D.

We also visited the poet Arthur Rimband Center. I wasn’t interested in seeing his museum only because before I left America I researched him and didn’t find that he did much for Ethiopia in general. He also was some sort of spy and I just lost all interest.

That night I spent in Harar at the sister’s compound. The Capuchin sisters are wonderful! They are very pleasant company. That night they braided my hair.

December 12th I watched TV for most of the day. I also visited the Haremaya University’s zoo. They have an array of Monkeys, Lions, and a hyena. One of the young lionesses was chewing on the head of a bull when we arrived.

December 13th I went to mass that Worku was performing for the students at Haremaya University. I enjoyed my time visiting and making friends. The campus is famous for agriculture, but they are also well known for law. The campus has a huge compound with lots of trees and farming patches.

In the evening we visited the Harar Brewery where you can see how they make Harar beer. At their bar you can get a Jambo (Pint) of Harar Stout beer for 50 cents.


On December 14th we had our breakfast and I am now back in my beloved Dire Dawa writing this blog just for you.


Misty

Gifty of the Oromoo Tribe

Coffee Ceremony

12/8/09


The only time I’ve heard of fresh milk was when the 93-year-old Bishop told me the ritual to become of the Oromoo tribe. The only milk I can find here is powdered milk. This is most likely because there are no fridgerators or adequate electricity.

There is a tribe here called the Oromoo tribe.

The 93 year old bishop likes to joke saying how everyone is Oromoo in one way or another. So, the 93-year-old-biship told me today I am Oromoo

He says I have to change my name though.

Since my name in Amharic literally means "my wife"

He says, "oh that won’t do"

When you go through the Oromoo Ritual you suck the milk from the female tribe leader's tit and then she gives you a new name. So, first he wanted to change my name from misty to Whiskey then he laughed and changed it to Gifty.

Gifty means "queen" in Amharic
Lucky I didn’t have to drink from anyone's tit...
It's really funny to see the look on people’s faces when I introduce myself. The reply is, "Who wife??
But now I can say, "I am Gifty of the Oromoo tribe"

Misrak invited me to dinner tonight. I met three of her good friends. After dinner we went on a walk and stopped at a café to have some tea.


12/9/09

I’ve been somewhat nervous as to how I would respond if I were asked my religion. Normally this doesn’t bother me, but since I’m staying at a Catholic convent in a foreign country I had no way of knowing what to expect. Today at lunch the topic inevitably presented itself.

As you know the 93-year-old Bishop (Abba Petros) LOVES to joke about being Oromoo and whatnot. Today at lunch he asked me if I was Catholic. I replied, “No.” His hands shot up to his face and started to wail! I stopped him and said, “…I am Oromoo.” And suddenly he was laughing so hard I though he might keel over that moment.

Then he said in English, “You know Oromoo had their own religion (during Pagan times) Our god ‘Weg’ sits on the top of a special tree that grows here in Ethiopia (like a bird) The people pray under these trees. When they pray for rain, it rains immediately. Now we pray to the Catholic god and why don’t we get an answer? Why because he is so far away (in heaven) how can he hear us? Can I use you cell phone?!”

We all die in laughter. Then Abba Petros says, “You got me this time Gifty, so now for the consequence you must take me to America so I can visit my nephew.” Confused, we asked him who is nephew is? “Obama.” He says with a flash of his white teeth and belly laugh “heh heh heh heh”

I’m off to bed now. I have to wake up at 5AM. Worku, Misrak, and I are going to Jijiga (South east of Dire Dawa.) We will have breakfast with the Abbas there visit the compound and present our first completed gift (the audio tape of the 4th grade ‘English For Ethiopia Workbook) to the local schools.

By the time you read all the adventure that (at the moment) are yet to take place I will already be back and posting this for you to read. So until then lovelies….


Misty AKA Sullen AKA Gifty

The Rest Of What Didn't Post From The Last Blog :)

Everywhere are flags of different regions of Ethiopian as well as the Nation flag. Misrak explains that in the beginning the national flag was just red, yellow, and green. During Haile Sellassies time the government added the lion in the middle of the national flag. The current government has once again changed the national flag from the lion to a star in the middle.

On our way back we stop to buy a papaya. A man in a business suit and sunglasses pays for it before I can even pull out my money. “For our lovely guest he says and walks away to his car.

I side glance at Misrak as to what to do next and she say, “You can go tell him thank you. People here is Dire Dawa do that sometimes they are very nice.” So before the car takes off I walk over to the rolled down window and say “Amaseganalu” (Thank you in Amharic.) “No thank you.” He says in English. “What is you name?”

“Misty” I say and the two men in the car laugh (remember my name in Amharic literally translates to “My Wife.”) I laugh too and they ask if I am on vacation or working. I tell them I am volunteering and they are very pleased. “Well then a pleasure it is.” The man says and we say goodbye.

Misrak and I take a small car back to where I am staying. The two guys in the car are not as nice. They say in Amharic to Misrak, “She is Russian, so we will discriminate and make you too pay more.”

“She is not Russian.” Misrak says, “and so we will not pay more. The guys make a sour face and insist that I am Russian and therefore I will pay more or they will kick us out of the car. We get back to my place and pay them the normal amount (Two Birr.)

The guy driving makes another sour face and shoves the Birr in his glove compartment only saying “You are Russian.” He drives off. We laugh, and continue on.

Since this week is a national holiday many people from all over Ethiopia are coming to Dire Dawa. Every year it is a different location. This year is Dire Dawa (The city of Love.) There are many celebrations and festivals going on this week. The whole city smells of Frankincense.

Last night (12/5/09) was a bazaar and concert. (5 Birr to get in.) There is lots of live music, as well as a comedian. The people here although they are very, very poor, have a great sense of humor.

I’ve been reading a lot. I just finished “The Hero with a Thousand Faces” by Joseph Campbell. I am almost finished with a book Ashley let me have before she left Barcelona Spain. It’s called “Of Saints and Shadows” by Christopher Golden. It’s about the war between vampires, humans, and the Catholic Church.

It’s a great read if you like fiction, Vampires and all that stuff. I eat it right up. I’ve always loved a good Vampire read. Ever since I was little I was reading books like “My Best Friend’s a Vampire” and Anne Rice books, R.L. Stein, Movies, and TV shows like “Dark Shadows” I could go on and on…

This book is different. It relates in a strange way to my own surroundings in a sense. The book is about the Catholic Church coming after the oldest of the vampires and eventually planning to destroy them all. Their intention is to keep them from an age-old secret the Catholics have hidden from Vampires to control them. The vampires eventually find out the secret is the superstitions. They’re all fakes. Even walking in the sun.

I put it in this perspective: I am living in the guesthouse of a Catholic church. Ethiopians as I have described eat raw meat. In fact they eat meat whenever it is available raw or cooked. They love their raw meat! Their chocolate skin helps protect them from the sun, yet they prefer the night. May times the streets here look deserted until night falls and you see masses of people everywhere.

Could Ethiopians be modern day Vampires?

Settling In

12/4/09

Settling into routine here in Dire Dawa. I have a few projects I’ve been working on. One of them is recording the stories from the fourth grade English workbook on to a CD so that the children can practice pronunciation. I’ve just finished with the 24 chapter/ stories and am now picking out vocabulary words to record.

I wrote an essay on Success and confusions people abroad may have about America. It’s written in a general sense or I would have to write a whole book. The subject itself is broad and so I only touched lightly on the subject at hand.

I have been given a local cell phone while I am working here. I wash my clothes in my sink; I eat all my meals with the Brothers and Abbas. Misrak and I go out sometimes to walk. A few nights ago there was a huge feast (on the roof of the building I am staying at) for three bicyclists from Switzerland. They rode their bikes all the way to Ethiopia as a fundraiser for water. A penny per Kilometer was what sponsors pay.

After the feast I was talking with Philippe one of the bicyclists about our current adventures. We turn to head in for the night and realized we’ve been locked out. It’s too far to jump and all three doors are locked. Philippe says, “Well I guess we’re spending the night outside.”

I wont hear none of that and pull out my cell. I hear Philippe sigh in relief and call Abba Worku to bail us out. Worku laughs and laughs and within minutes someone comes to unlock the door apologizing.

Abba Petros (the 93 year old Bishop) always makes us laugh at the dinner table. He always has some joke or funny comment. Before we eat he says the evening prayer and ends it with “and may god bless me with the appetite of Brother Simon.” He likes to say how every one is Oromo in one way or another. Then he laughs a belly laugh and his white teeth gleaming. Even I am some how of the Oromo tribe (although I’m not sure how.)

Misrak and I went to her favorite place called The Jungle. It’s three birr to enter ($1.00 = 12 Birr.) It’s in comparative to a very small Zoo (including the cages they are kept in.) The first cage has only pigeons. The second, third, fourth, and fifth have different types of birds including pheasants, roosters, and geese.

The next dozen cages have different types of monkeys, baboons, and a hyena. Then there are peacocks, and an ostrich.
We have a seat and drink juice. The juice comes in three colors one on top of the other. Mango, ambusha (a local fruit), and avocado; they make up the colors of the Ethiopian flag. When we leave I notice there are flags up now.

Mother T

11/30/09

Again today I went with Abba Negash to visit the sisters at the Mother Teresa compound. We were given a tour that lasted about an hour. First was the men’s compound, the psychiatric patients sitting cross-legged in the middle of a roofed basketball court; waiting for their daily medication. Room after room we went with different classes or ailments; one room for HIV patients, one for TB, Terminal ill, old people, retarded people, a room full of patients with skin wounds, and one for orphan boys.

Another room sister explains is for men with liver cancers. She shakes the hand of a very skinny, aging man and in Amharic says, “Duhna nuh?” (You are fine?) It is clear that he is not yet he manages a wiry smile and simple says, “Duhna” (Fine) and kisses her hand to his forehead in respect.

She pulls down his white blanket to reveal his bulging bloated stomach. She says in English, “This is what happens they come to us when it is too late and the illness has already consumed them. Their bellies swell up like this. He will not leave this room until he is ready to be buried.”

She leaves nothing for the imagination as we tour the rest of the compound. The next portion of the tour leads us to the women’s compound. It is much like that of the men’s with extra rooms for mother’s with no husbands, and there are much more children running around.

Sister explains how they have just succeeded in persuading an un-married pregnant woman out of having an abortion. “We will keep the baby if she dopes not want it after it is born. Sometimes the mother once seeing the baby for the first time will take it, other times we will if she will not.” She explains.

The psychiatric patients in the woman’s compound are separated from the rest of the compound. I ask the sister why this is so? “ The women with psychiatric problems are much worse in behavior than the males I’m afraid to say. They are wild.”

They look wild some drooling, with snot yet to fall from their noses, some screaming and chasing an invisible intruder, others staring off into space until they are disturbed mumbling and chanting.

We visit everyone in the compound. I am not afraid, only saddened. The ill are everywhere. The forgotten, the abandoned, but not deserted.

Shortly after leaving, Abba Negash asks me, “Are you alright?”
“Yes.” I say and there is a silence of understanding in his eyes.

Today is Not Yesterday but the Beginning of Tomorrow

11/29/09

Yesterday Misrak and I hung out most of the day together. Today Brother Simon and I went to buy two goats for a feast tomorrow. He began to bargen with the local Somali for a price. When he gave a price he thought was reasonable, the Somoli merchant said “Are you joking? Maybe you could pay that much during the time of Haile Sellassie, but not now.” He said and we all laughed. It is a Catholic Ethiopian holiday called Abune Endirias (Saint Endirias)

Afterwards Brother Simon, Abba Negesh, and I visited the Mother Teresa Compound. The sisters there take care of the worst of the worst people in Ethiopia. You will find you mentally ill, retarded, and all sorts of damned souls within its walls. There are also a number of children and old people there. I made friends quick with the little children. They all want to touch my skin or hold my hand. When I look at them and smile they give way to a shy face and run away giggling.

I sat and listened for their mass. It was in Amharic so I don’t understand it, but I clapped when people were clapping and managed. I had an itch on my back I could barley reach one of the retarded girls sitting behind me started scratching it for me. I turned to her and said in Amharic “thank you” and he smiled and looked content. In all it was a great experience; talking with the sisters and learning a lot about their daily duties and commitments to the community.

We returned and had lunch. The 93-year-old Bishop likes to talk in French it seems more than in Amharic sometimes. He makes the funniest jokes although I cannot think of them at the moment.

I took a nap after lunch and Misrak came for me at 5pm. We met up with Brother Simon and Abba Negesh and one of the Parish Priests. We all went out for dinner tonight. Dinner was Local beer, Local wine, Raw meat, followed by cooked meat. Ethiopians are REAL meat eaters. We laughed and talked about everything and anything.

Tonight is a big football (soccer) game. I watched until half time before returning to my room. I can hear the whole community as they cheer and boo at different points of the game.

The more I learn of Ethiopia’s rich history, and the previous people in power, the more I think Rastas are a big joke (especially the white Rastas.) Haile Sellassie was not a savior, nor was he a saint. To idolize him is to make yourself one big joke of an idiot’s fart.

I am told that Ethiopians consider themselves separate from the rest of Africa. The only time they will bond with Africa is when there is war against it. Other wise they will refer to themselves simply as “Ethiopians.”

Good night/morning to all…

P.S.

If you have any question please feel free to leave a comment with them and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge. If I don’t know the answer I can find out…

One of my friends in Dallas, Texas asked me if they have Toilets and toilet paper? The answer is yes. They have both. Ethiopians keep very clean even with the drought and lack of water.

No question is too ignorant. I know that the media has given us a certain perspective and stereo type, but this is 2009/2010 (Following the Julian Calendar it’s 2002) Ethiopians have access to technology (at least in the cities.) Many youths attend the universities, read and are active in politics. I find my self less alienated. I especially find it very easy to communicate here since everyone speaks English. (okay I lie not everyone.) In that way I am not alone. I am one among many…

Malaria

11/28/09

Here in Dire Dawa the old bishop is 93 years old, but still as sharp as a razorblade. He says that Obama is from the Oromo tribe. “But his family is from Kenya.” Abba Worku says. The old bishop explains something about Kenya people originating from the Oromo tribe, which makes him Oromo. “He is our brother.” He says in Amharic with a 93-year-old grin. Ethiopians like Obama VERY much. Actually the world is happy with him for the time being.

It has actually rained today which I think is unusual for the dry season. It was a light shower but outside smells fresh and the ground eagerly and selfishly has devoured whatever rain it touches.

I am introduced to Misrak (It means “East” in Amharic.) She is 23 years old and graduated from law school last year. She is now working as Worku’s secretary in the peace and justice department of the Catholic church here. I like her very much and know we will spend much time together. She is intelligent, funny and from the Groggy tribe.
Before I return to my room after dinner the brothers, Misrak, and I watch Ethiopian Idol.

The mosquito netting swallows my bed in neon green, and hangs about like the bed is made for a princess. Queen of Sheba perhaps? Ah alas it is only I at the moment sleeping in such settings.

On the Road Again

11/27/09

I have not had the chance to put my thoughts down in a few days. The American Holiday “Thanksgiving” has past and hopefully you all know how thankful I am for everything in my life.

Two days ago while still in Addis Ababa, I met with sister Carol. She is currently teaching an English class at St. Francis Friary among other things. She is originally from America. She has been a nun for over 25 years she tells me.

We sit and chat for a while about Ethiopia, and America. I come to find out she is trying to prepare a Poetry class for the students in addition to the English classes. In this I can help her.

Abba Daniel made some copies of my “Sound and Sense” Introduction to poetry book with detailed explanations of metaphors, imagery, rhyme, meter, etc… The book also has examples as well as exercises for students. I hope it will help her.

On the 26^th at 5am we left the compound and Addis heading towards Harar. We had two Catholic bishops with us. It was a long journey to Harar. We stopped at four different compounds visiting the Abbas, sisters, and schools set up.

Each place we stopped wanted to serve us tea (shy) or coffee (buna) it is also common to have toasted barley as a snack/treat. Everyone I have met was very nice and hospitable.

Of course the kids all want to say hello and one little boy wanted to hold my hand (which is common to hold hands as a sign of friendship.) In one of the classrooms the women were learning to sew, but most of the classrooms were for elementary through 9^th grade.

Everywhere is drought. There just isn’t enough water for people in Ethiopia. One of the most valuable possessions of the compounds is their water reservoir. They collect water during the wet season to use when there is no water during the dry season (we are currently in the dry season.)

On the way to Harar you will see goats, donkeys, chickens, different types of cows and camels. Since there is such a deficiency of water most people here rely on meat to sustain themselves for food. Hawks and vultures circle the skies.

You will still see crops of maze, tef, eatable greens, and so on. There is an abundance of bananas, oranges, mango and papaya, but since there is no way to preserve these perishables when they are out of season they are out.

Nothing is processed here like in America. Everything is organic and fresh. It has to be there is no source for anything else. No refrigerators or microwaves. Only in the Catholic compounds you will see a stove. Only in a few places can you find dried pasta, or a can of something. People here just don’t have the money to afford such luxuries. Most families don’t even use electricity.

Everything in Ethiopia especially agriculture is the same technology as it’s been for thousands of years. The difference to thousands of years ago and today is that most people in the big cities have a cell phone and maybe a family car if they have any money.

Arab countries, Italians, and the ancient Egyptians have mostly influenced Ethiopia.

The closer to Harar you get the more Chat crops and people carrying chat around. People lying around chewing, and so on. The houses are either square and made of sticks and mud with tin roofs, or round made of sticks, mud, and a straw thatched roof.

All the men have clothes on, most of the women are covered up as well, but a few women you will see without tops. Children mostly have some sort of clothes on but in some of the remote places the younger children were naked as well.

There are lots of mountains. The view is amazing. We must have past maybe four or five accidents on the side of the road. Big trucks turned over with people standing all around. It didn’t look like anyone was hurt but goods were scattered and the trucks twisted and in ruin.

I haven’t exactly had the reaction I expected to get in Ethiopia. I‘m thrilled that most of the people here other than a few, don’t even bat an eyelash. No one is calling out “Frengis” as many of the blogs I read about foreigners visiting described.

We finally arrive at the walls that engulf Harar. The entrance to the Catholic Church we will spend the night at open its gates. “Salaam” and nods are exchanged. Once in the foyer I am shown to my room for the night.

We wash up and have dinner. The Bishop gives a spoonful of something yellow and alcoholic to Worku. He coughs and almost spits it out. The old bishop laughs. He says, “This one is not good anymore. See the sediment at the bottom? I will get another bottle.” He returns with a full bottle and explains that is whiskey he has made himself.

After dinner I am invited to watch TV for a while. How surprised am I to find out that both the bishop and Abba Worku are wrestling fanatics! We were just in time to watch WWE as it is now called.

Watching them so engaged in this sort of American entertainment brings me back to memories of my sister Arielle and myself years ago. We used to love to watch wrestling and then try to wrestle with each other in out living room. Arielle was still in diapers. We would get into costume and everything enacting out scenes we had just watched or making up our own.

After WWE is over, I head to my room and am suddenly in front of a very old nun. She rattles off a long string of Amharic. I say the only words I have learned so far. “Duhna Nuwot?” (Polite way of saying: you are fine?) She says some more in Amharic… I say, “Alguban~um” (I don’t understand.)

She then says, “Italian?” and a long string of words in Italian.

“No, American.” I say.

“Oh!” she smiles and continues to say more things in Amharic and pats my back, smiling before leaving me.(Notice the loud speakers in the windows.)

I return to my room. I sleep. I am awoken by the most disturbing sound. It’s 4:30 in the morning and speakers from the Mosque are blaring prayers. It feels like the room is shaking with the awful declarations. I get up only to record some of this so you believe me. I lay in bed waiting until it finally stops an hour later.After a small breakfast with Buna (coffee) I take a tour of the compound.
(I am shown the water reservoir which has a solar panel system to clean It.) The old nuns (two of them) really hope I will stay with them. With a somewhat wiry grin I tell Worku I am not able to make that type of commitment. I thank them for the offer (which Worku interprets.) and promise I will however see them again…

We pack up the Toyota and head out to Dire Dawa…..

Todd you Made my Day

Todd: gross! you don't shave? lol j/k

me: lol no point at the moment,

me: Ethiopia has the best Ethiopian food ever LOL

Todd: NS?!?! how does urban spoon rate them? authentic?

me: LOL

Poetry will Always Love me

11/25/09

There is always sleep!

Oh sweet sleep!

When did you come,

and visit my bedside?

Kissed me with bliss,

and heavenly dreams.

Sang to me hymns of solitude.

Carressed my face,

with your touch of sweet.

Poetry is Patient

Oh lion!
Oh ram!
Rumpelstiltskin I am not
I will not sleep any longer!

She will watch with dew-lit eyes and a sullen smile
Her cheeks glow with soft accents and a tear descends down
All she wears are her cares

She is me, and I am she
I swear I’ve become
The skin of the sun

Time sealed her away,
Yet she is dwelling still,
Like one who sleeps in timelessness,
At the bottom of the cosmic sea
She is the root of absolute ruin
When the sun breaks in its youthful,
Strong ascent, balances,
And begins the mighty plunge to death

Oh lion!
Oh ram!
Rumpelstiltskin I am not
I will not sleep any longer!

Time is split into days and nights
I measure time
By the way the willow sways
And when the music plays
It’s time to relax
Reading a book my eyes collapse

Oh lion!
Oh ram!
Rumpelstiltskin I am not
I will not sleep any longer!

C is for Culture

11/23/09

Today after coffee and a banana Worku and I visited three different catholic churches. The first one was very plain until you got inside and then it was absolutely gorgeous. The other two were not yet finished.

We had an Italian lunch. Ethiopians love Italian food; love it. I had spaghetti with vegetables and Worku had spaghetti with eggs.

Once back at St. Francis I took a nice long nap. Worku woke me up a few hours later and said a long time friend Assegid had invited us to dinner. He took us to a restaurant called “Abisha” This restaurant had probably the most ferangi (foreigner) I’ve seen in one place since I got here (still not many.)

It is a touristy restaurant but great all the same. The meal was excellent! You know when the food is sooo good but you are too full to eat any more but you keep picking at it anyways just to get more of the flavor. Well that was how great it was!

After a traditional Ethiopian dinner the musicians came out and played traditional music. There were female and male singers. Then the dancers came out! Whoa what can I say I was very impressed as they danced different tribal dances that were very energetic!

It’s hard to explain without seeing them with your own eyes the dances. I highly suggest you “you tube” Traditional Ethiopian tribal dancing, or maybe specific tribes like “Oromo”, “Groggy”, or “Tigray” to name a few.

To summarize it the focus on Ethiopian dancing is on the upper chest, shoulders, neck, and head. Some of the movements are very ridged. The two girl dancers each showcased, first relaxing their necks stretching them and then the drum got faster and they swung their heads so fast like they were possessed. I really expected their heads to fly off at any moment.

After all the extravagant dancing the dancers came to dance with some of the audience members. One older man in a business suit gave one of the girls’ 100 Birr (about $10.00) to dance with her. The best of the two guy dancers came to our table. Worku and Assegid laughed and said, “I knew it!” (Luckily thanks to Bemnet and his friends in Dallas, Texas I’ve had practice.) I surprised the hell out of them. They said they were very impressed I didn’t make an ass out of myself like the other white people there. Yeay! HaHa

Anyways we had a great time! What an experience. (By the way Bemnet if you’re reading this I got to hear many silly stories about you growing up tonight ;)

Until tomorrow’s great adventure I bid you good night (or in your case good morning.)

Misty (not Miste which means wife in Amharic.)

Compound Addis- Poem

Exiled in a world of organized inadequacies
The bliss that once was known will be known again…

And we read each other poetry until our heart’s content
He says, “It is almost like you are a nun.”
And we laugh
The night is at its end
So we can pretend
I am staying at a compound
In a foreign land
Eating my favorite food
By the fingers of my hand
The monks are very smart
Very nice and very neat
The people outside the friary
Sleep on the street

Underarm hair, legs, and bush
Longer, and longer they grow
Holes in my clothes
Luckily I can sew
Dinkinesh lovely in her bones
Rests near a stele
Older than Rome

Exiled in a world of organized inadequacies

The bliss that once was known will be known again…

11/22/09

Addis Ababa University

11/22/2009 (or is it 2002?)

I still feel as though I’ve been transported back in time. I literal have if I’m using the Ethiopian calendar. You will not find the Ark of the Covenant here I’m afraid. If it is here it is well hidden. There are a great number of steles here, very old, very beautiful.

Worku says when we are in Harar we will try to find some caves to explore. I was told at the museum Harar has many cave paintings that have yet to be excavated. Why aren’t more archeologists interested in Ethiopia I wonder? Maybe it’s the government; maybe the people don’t want it bothered? I am still in thought about it.

Previously I told you about the ancient things I saw in the Ethiopian National museum in Addis Ababa. Today I visited the University museum in Addis Ababa. The Addis Ababa University was established after Haile Sellassie reign in his very palace. The main building was turned into the museum.

The Suri and Mursi women (I think are south Ethiopia) are the ones who insert the plates in their mouths stretching them for “beauty”. One of the girls at Worku’s family’s house had some tattooing on her face she said were for “beauty.” Most people here do not carry on that tradition though.

Lot’s of people hold hands here while walking. As a sign of friendship you will see Men holding men’s hands, and women holding women’s hands. You will also see donkey’s that appear to have no owner but bundles of items on their backs following each other seemingly to know where they are going.

3,000 Ethiopians are running a marathon today to help raise money for crippled/-disabled people in Ethiopia. The city is very busy.

A young girl cannot manage to hold it. In a frantic squat rushes to get her pants down and sprays pee everywhere. A moment further we pass a toilet store.

I have begun to write poetry again. I’ve had a block since I moved to New Orleans. I have written but nothing I am happy with. Now thoughts are beginning to flow like the Nile.

When I am not creating, or learning, I am dying.

Visiting

11/21/2009

After breakfast Worku and I went to visit the nuns. The mother superior is from the Groggy tribe and is very pleasant. Before we left she gave me a copy of the Amharic alphabet with the English phonetics to practice. I can say a few words in Amharic but it’s very, very limited.

After tea with mother we went to visit Worku’s sister in law. She has a three-month-old baby; they are still fussing over her name. She is wide-eyed and beautiful. Every house will offer you food and after saying no thank you a few times you pretty much have to accept out of respect. Lucky for me I was told ahead of time. I ate a little Injara with some sort of ground (cooked) meat.

We then drove to where Worku’s other brother and four sisters live. They are all very beautiful with slender builds, high cheekbones, and rosebud lips. They are very gracious. They thought I was Italian and made spaghetti. When I got there Worku told them I was from America and we all had a good laugh.

The spaghetti was great, and afterwards we had some Ethiopian traditional coffee cooked in a clay pot on hot coals. There was also incense burning with an aroma I couldn’t place. Rose petals and some sort of fern leaves were scattered on the floor and we watched Ethiopian Idol on TV.

The weather is Addis Ababa is hot like Texas during the day and cool in the evening (enough to wear a light sweater.) Even as hot as it is during the day you will see a lot of people wearing long sleeves and sweaters.

My mom in Texas is supposed top have surgery some time today if I’m right. I hope it goes well and tomorrow I will check my email in hopes of good news.

The Malarone (malaria tabs) gives me some pretty vivid dreams. Sometimes I wake up in the middle of the night in mid speech. Who knows what I am babbling as I forget the dreams almost as soon as I awake leaving me only with weird sensations of flying or casting light from my fingertips. I have had many dreams of past lovers, and faces I cannot deem recognizable.

At dinner tonight there were a group of Kenyans visiting the compound. In their honor and addition to the Ethiopian dishes we had some food traditionally eaten in Kenya. Some fort of Fried breaded fish (it smelled very fishy too), some zesty tomato salad, and some glob of starchy white stuff.

After dinner one man from the group made a thank you speech, and they group sang two songs in Swahili. We all clapped and applauded.

Ethiopia- Addis Ababa

11/20/2009

Axum is the sacred city of the Ethiopians. It is the northern part of Ethiopia. They say it is where human life and civilization began and spread south. 5.7 million years ago is the earliest date to which we find the preservation of human bones. I have seen her bones. They call her…

The name “Lucy” was given by the American anthropologist that found her. He was listening to “Lucy in the sky with diamonds” by the Beatles when she was discovered, thus the name. She is 3.3 million years old. In addition to seeing a replica of “Lucy” (She is currently in Texas.) The Ethiopians call her Dinkinesh (which means, “How wonderful she is.” In Amharic) I have seen the actual bones of a child dating back 4.4 million years ago.

In the Ethiopian national museum located in Addis Ababa I viewed many artifacts dating 500 years or more before Christ. It was there that I also had the chance to see back in time how things were. Many of these items and ways of life are still used today. Technology has only recently reached Ethiopia and can be hard to come by.

The animal symbols of Ethiopia are of the lion and the ram. The colors of the flag are Yellow, green, and red. There are a mix of stories on how the Ethiopians feel about The queen of Sheba and her son (Menelik I), Haile Sellassie, the invasion of the Italians, and the current president. When people meet they say “Salaam” and kiss each other starting from the left cheek to the right cheek and back again to the left cheek sometimes even kissing the hand and then letting it rest on their forehead or third eye.

I am currently staying at the St. Francis Friary. Worku picked me up from the Addis Ababa airport at 2am. I have been here for two days. Everyday at 5am you are awakened by the neighboring Muslims signing in prayer. It is very loud and each mosk seems to be in competition with the other projecting as loud as possible.

During the day you can hear an abundance of children playing, and laughing somewhere. In the evening you again hear the Muslims praying. It is overlapped with traditional Ethiopian music streaming from houses in the community. The city is busy with people. It is true you will see many homeless, abandoned, and broken people with missing or twisted limbs. There are packs of abandoned dogs that roam the streets at night.

Time here is split into day and night. Day is then split into ‘before 6, and after 6.’ (6,6,6,6) It is the Ethiopian year of 2002. Abyssinia is the name before it was known as Ethiopia.

Yesterday Aba (means “father” in Amharic) took us around on a tour of the monastery. He gave explanations and references to what each building was for, the classrooms, the chapel, Dining hall, stables, gardens (there are many hummingbirds), the football field (which when not in use has cows and goats grazing), and the library.

He then with a glow in his eyes asked if I would like to see a hidden room within the library. Of course I agreed. In this room there were tools to bind books. Some of these books were very worn and used. They were books of Ethiopian history and important people, and old newspapers that had been bonded into large books. “This room is not allowed by the students.” He said.

“Only people wishing to go deeper to research their heritage are allowed here, but they must have the persistence and curiosity to ask for more knowledge.” He continued. I mulled over the books for a few minutes as I cannot read or understand Amharic.

The Aba then said, “There is another secret room. This room is even more secret than this and only I have access to it. My eyes widened as his did. “Would you like to see this room?” He questioned.

“Y-yes I would be honored.” I stumbled upon my words. We walked around the corner from where the library was and after looking from side to side entered by key into another room. The room looked like the last room with books stacked high. But there was a door I did not see until the Aba had it open for me to walk through. Again there were tools for binding books on the table.

In a locked glass bookshelf were books bonded in red leather and strings made out of animal skins. There were designs on the covers in Amharic. “Many of Egypt’s manuscripts were lost,” He nods “but we Ethiopians retain copies and originals.” He continues as he unlocks the case. As he pulls out books he tells me of his love for literature, and how he hopes to open a public library for the people of Ethiopia. “It would be an extension of the Friary, but the people would own it.” He explains.

“I have written all the paperwork and the people are very interested. My only restriction is that the people will have to pay the librarian’s salary. It is the only way to make it theirs. The Friary will provide the building and the books, but the people must take some responsibility. This is all I ask and even that has made progress on the library still. We await the community’s response.” Aba explains as he opens one of the books.

“These books,” he makes clear “are handwritten 13th through 15th century manuscripts. He read a passage in Amharic and roughly translates to English. They are gospels, history, and poetry.

(The power has just gone out and everything is quiet. 9:20am CST.)
(Power back on at 9:35am CST.)

There are even hand-pained pictures of saints that are absolutely beautiful. The ink is printed on paper made of animal skin and bounded by string made by animals and red leather coverings with pressed decorations.

I wish I knew the language and could sit for hours reading. Alas, I only have time for a silent prayer of thanks for allowing me to see such a splendor in my life. We leave as we came and head over to the Aba’s office so I can email my family and let them know I made it to Ethiopia safely.

Remembering the flight on my way from England to Ethiopia I talked to a few men on business. One was an older gentleman from England. He worked for an electricity company. He told me what to expect as far as electricity is concerned. “It is not stable and they have many outages.” He told me all good experiences and that he really enjoys the country.

He also told me how he didn’t think the world should allow electricity to everyone as it is in America, the UK and so on. “I think it should only be given at certain times of the day and should cost more.” I disagree. I think it is a privilege to live in a county where I can turn on the lights when I deem it necessary.

Over hearing our conversation another businessman acknowledges me and says, “So you said you’re from Dallas huh?”

“Yes sir” I answered back to which he replied:
“I haven’t been there in years but I am from there too. I used to work for Sam Johnson in the early 90’s. Let me tell you that there are two sides to every story. I’ve been living here for three years. It’s not all good. It’s a third world country you have to understand. People go missing in the night never to be heard from again.” He says in an almost whisper.

His eyes look from side to side as if he is very nervous someone could over hear him and drops his voice down even lower. “You be careful. Keep to yourself. The government is corrupt. It is not good here.” He never told me what he was doing in Ethiopia and I am certain I will never see him again.

11/21/09

Breakfast is jam and white bread. There is also the option of some weird sort of lunchmeat and slices of white cheese. I just drink coffee with a spoon of sugar. Lunch and dinner are usually the same things with maybe one or two extra dishes included at dinner.

Injara (Ethiopian sourdough bread you use also as utensils), something green (greens of some sort), something red (beets?), potatoes with carrots and some sort of spicy pepper, something brown and saucy, either battered fish or some sort of meat, and tomato cucumber salad. There is St. George’s beer that is brewed in Addis Ababa, and red wine made at the Friary. For desert there is always an abundance of green oranges and bananas.

Today we will visit with some nuns and Worku’s brothers that live here in Addis Ababa.

A day in London

With the chance of reflection living in Barcelona I remember how everyone uses the term "Balle" for everything. They use it for yes, no, come on, sure, okay, etc... I wasn't used to the Spanish in Barcelona as they all seem to talk with a lisp. The Spanish I learned is very pronuciated.

Here in England The cutest thing I've ever heard was when Rachel told her son to sign to Christopher and he said in his little British accent "But mummy! I can't! I have little fingers!" My heart melted. How cute. Reminds me of Nick Swardson's "British Kid" stand up. Yesterday Christopher and I took the train from Southend to London (about an hour ride.) We saw the Tower of London and Tower bridge.

Then we decided to check out The Dungeon (http://www.thedungeons.com/) A good two hours of London's gruesome history. Most of it was visual and Christopher really seemed to enjoy it. Especially the lynching ride! Everything was based on actual events in history including Jack the Ripper and The Great Fire of London, Tooley Street, and Sweeney Todd.
We then went for a bite to eat. We stopped in at"The Kings Old Head" a pub where we could get cider and fish and chips.

We took the Queens walk and headed towards the London Eye. It was a quite walk since none of us talked although we used a lot of Gestures, British Sign Language, I phone note pad, and good old fashioned pen and paper to communicate.

It's a long walk I think we walked altogether 8miles yesterday. We finally got to The London Eye! Amazing view. I can now say I've seen everything in London LOL. I guess I'd have to compare it to the State Fair of Texas Ferris wheel.

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.panoramas.dk%2Ffullscreen6%2Ff52-london_eye.html&h=ab0382f9d86515dd771d3fd90ca439d8
We continued our walk to Big Ben, Parliament, but skipped Buckingham Palace we were too tired and had a long walk back.

Babel Fish

£ngland

My flight was so early I made the decision not to sleep Wednesday night. Caught a taxi at 4am to the airport. I was really sad to leave Barcelona and the new friends I've made.

Finally in England now. Got in yesterday (Thursday, November 12th 2009) Chris and his brother Peter came to pick me up from the airport. They had a nice big sign with my name on it. ;)

Hauled my luggage to Chris's house and met with the other Peter, his wife Alison, and their two sons. Their youngest son is Deaf and has a cochlear implant. They use both sign and talking with him.

I am learning BSL fast. Christopher and I took a walk around the neighborhood and to the ocean. The ocean is very close to the house I'd say a 5 min walk. South End is very nice. The houses are very eloquent. We did our point and sign to learn new signs and i showed Christopher the sign in ASL so we could compare similarities and differences.

There are a few signs that are the same or very close to it. How ever it's they signs that have the same shape but different meanings that throw me off. Especially for example: The sign for "Where" in ASL, is the sign for "What" in BSL. This also goes for the sign "What" in ASL is the sign for "Where" in BSL.

So, Peter and Alison are head of a baptist church and last night we had dinner and met friends of theirs Rachel and Tim. They also have two sons. Their oldest son has cerebralposly. Dinner was great! We had "bangers and mash with old mans ale" sweet sausages, carrots, green beans, mash potatoes, brown gravy, and ale. For desert chocolate cake with berries and tea.

Today went with Rachel to visit a castle (or what's left of it) Hadleigh Castle a stone 13th century keep and bailey fortress, founded by Hubert de Burgh. In the 14th century. Built in 1213 King Edward III remodelled the castle. It over looks mostly farm land, and is now owned by The Salvation Army. Inside the nearby Salvation Army we had coffee and tarts.

We are now back at Rachel's for her son's music therapy while I type out this blog.

L lletraferit

Without internet and sick the last few days...

Last night Barbara, Brian, and I went to L lletraferit. I performed spoken word for a crowd of Spanish speakers! Made a few new friends. Victor the host was awsome and even did a poem under a table!

Had a great time!