Ethiopia- Addis Ababa

11/20/2009

Axum is the sacred city of the Ethiopians. It is the northern part of Ethiopia. They say it is where human life and civilization began and spread south. 5.7 million years ago is the earliest date to which we find the preservation of human bones. I have seen her bones. They call her…

The name “Lucy” was given by the American anthropologist that found her. He was listening to “Lucy in the sky with diamonds” by the Beatles when she was discovered, thus the name. She is 3.3 million years old. In addition to seeing a replica of “Lucy” (She is currently in Texas.) The Ethiopians call her Dinkinesh (which means, “How wonderful she is.” In Amharic) I have seen the actual bones of a child dating back 4.4 million years ago.

In the Ethiopian national museum located in Addis Ababa I viewed many artifacts dating 500 years or more before Christ. It was there that I also had the chance to see back in time how things were. Many of these items and ways of life are still used today. Technology has only recently reached Ethiopia and can be hard to come by.

The animal symbols of Ethiopia are of the lion and the ram. The colors of the flag are Yellow, green, and red. There are a mix of stories on how the Ethiopians feel about The queen of Sheba and her son (Menelik I), Haile Sellassie, the invasion of the Italians, and the current president. When people meet they say “Salaam” and kiss each other starting from the left cheek to the right cheek and back again to the left cheek sometimes even kissing the hand and then letting it rest on their forehead or third eye.

I am currently staying at the St. Francis Friary. Worku picked me up from the Addis Ababa airport at 2am. I have been here for two days. Everyday at 5am you are awakened by the neighboring Muslims signing in prayer. It is very loud and each mosk seems to be in competition with the other projecting as loud as possible.

During the day you can hear an abundance of children playing, and laughing somewhere. In the evening you again hear the Muslims praying. It is overlapped with traditional Ethiopian music streaming from houses in the community. The city is busy with people. It is true you will see many homeless, abandoned, and broken people with missing or twisted limbs. There are packs of abandoned dogs that roam the streets at night.

Time here is split into day and night. Day is then split into ‘before 6, and after 6.’ (6,6,6,6) It is the Ethiopian year of 2002. Abyssinia is the name before it was known as Ethiopia.

Yesterday Aba (means “father” in Amharic) took us around on a tour of the monastery. He gave explanations and references to what each building was for, the classrooms, the chapel, Dining hall, stables, gardens (there are many hummingbirds), the football field (which when not in use has cows and goats grazing), and the library.

He then with a glow in his eyes asked if I would like to see a hidden room within the library. Of course I agreed. In this room there were tools to bind books. Some of these books were very worn and used. They were books of Ethiopian history and important people, and old newspapers that had been bonded into large books. “This room is not allowed by the students.” He said.

“Only people wishing to go deeper to research their heritage are allowed here, but they must have the persistence and curiosity to ask for more knowledge.” He continued. I mulled over the books for a few minutes as I cannot read or understand Amharic.

The Aba then said, “There is another secret room. This room is even more secret than this and only I have access to it. My eyes widened as his did. “Would you like to see this room?” He questioned.

“Y-yes I would be honored.” I stumbled upon my words. We walked around the corner from where the library was and after looking from side to side entered by key into another room. The room looked like the last room with books stacked high. But there was a door I did not see until the Aba had it open for me to walk through. Again there were tools for binding books on the table.

In a locked glass bookshelf were books bonded in red leather and strings made out of animal skins. There were designs on the covers in Amharic. “Many of Egypt’s manuscripts were lost,” He nods “but we Ethiopians retain copies and originals.” He continues as he unlocks the case. As he pulls out books he tells me of his love for literature, and how he hopes to open a public library for the people of Ethiopia. “It would be an extension of the Friary, but the people would own it.” He explains.

“I have written all the paperwork and the people are very interested. My only restriction is that the people will have to pay the librarian’s salary. It is the only way to make it theirs. The Friary will provide the building and the books, but the people must take some responsibility. This is all I ask and even that has made progress on the library still. We await the community’s response.” Aba explains as he opens one of the books.

“These books,” he makes clear “are handwritten 13th through 15th century manuscripts. He read a passage in Amharic and roughly translates to English. They are gospels, history, and poetry.

(The power has just gone out and everything is quiet. 9:20am CST.)
(Power back on at 9:35am CST.)

There are even hand-pained pictures of saints that are absolutely beautiful. The ink is printed on paper made of animal skin and bounded by string made by animals and red leather coverings with pressed decorations.

I wish I knew the language and could sit for hours reading. Alas, I only have time for a silent prayer of thanks for allowing me to see such a splendor in my life. We leave as we came and head over to the Aba’s office so I can email my family and let them know I made it to Ethiopia safely.

Remembering the flight on my way from England to Ethiopia I talked to a few men on business. One was an older gentleman from England. He worked for an electricity company. He told me what to expect as far as electricity is concerned. “It is not stable and they have many outages.” He told me all good experiences and that he really enjoys the country.

He also told me how he didn’t think the world should allow electricity to everyone as it is in America, the UK and so on. “I think it should only be given at certain times of the day and should cost more.” I disagree. I think it is a privilege to live in a county where I can turn on the lights when I deem it necessary.

Over hearing our conversation another businessman acknowledges me and says, “So you said you’re from Dallas huh?”

“Yes sir” I answered back to which he replied:
“I haven’t been there in years but I am from there too. I used to work for Sam Johnson in the early 90’s. Let me tell you that there are two sides to every story. I’ve been living here for three years. It’s not all good. It’s a third world country you have to understand. People go missing in the night never to be heard from again.” He says in an almost whisper.

His eyes look from side to side as if he is very nervous someone could over hear him and drops his voice down even lower. “You be careful. Keep to yourself. The government is corrupt. It is not good here.” He never told me what he was doing in Ethiopia and I am certain I will never see him again.

11/21/09

Breakfast is jam and white bread. There is also the option of some weird sort of lunchmeat and slices of white cheese. I just drink coffee with a spoon of sugar. Lunch and dinner are usually the same things with maybe one or two extra dishes included at dinner.

Injara (Ethiopian sourdough bread you use also as utensils), something green (greens of some sort), something red (beets?), potatoes with carrots and some sort of spicy pepper, something brown and saucy, either battered fish or some sort of meat, and tomato cucumber salad. There is St. George’s beer that is brewed in Addis Ababa, and red wine made at the Friary. For desert there is always an abundance of green oranges and bananas.

Today we will visit with some nuns and Worku’s brothers that live here in Addis Ababa.